As our bucket list trip was coming to an end, we had one
more city to visit – Athens, Greece, the birthplace of philosophy and democracy.
(In 1834, Athens became the capital of Greece. There are 4.5 million in Athens
and 11 million in the country and has been inhabited for 7,000 years.) Bryan
and I both love Greek history – especially mythology – so couldn’t wait for
this stop. We had read ahead of time that the city of Athens, minus any day
trips FROM the city, could be done in a day. We wanted to make sure we had
enough time so planned for two nights. Let me just reiterate what we read ahead
of time, Athens can be done in a day. While we loved this city and all the
fascinating history, you don’t need more than 24 hours to get it all done.
So, on our last morning in Santorini, we caught a shuttle at
the Oia bus terminal which took us to the ferry port. At the port, you can find
several shops and restaurants, so while we waited, we had breakfast and watched
some of the other boats come in. While we were a bit nervous about boarding the
right ship (more to come on this in another blog), we made it fine. As we
boarded, we set our bags down on the lowest level, climbed the stairs to the
main floor and found our seat. Our ferry would take us about five hours from
Santorini to Athens, with a few stops along the way. There was plenty to eat
and drink on the ferry also, and they even offered homemade pita gyros. They
were delicious!
After arriving in Athens, we had a driver waiting to pick us
up who would drive us directly to our AirBnb. We were staying in a neighborhood
called, Koukaki. It’s an up and coming neighborhood that AirBnb had voted topfive best neighborhoods in the world! As we drove into town, we discovered our
driver lived nearby, so we asked him for some restaurant recommendations. Just
outside of our apartment, is a little pedestrian street with a ton of choices;
we stopped at one he suggested and had the most delicious (and incredibly
cheap!) meal. Following dinner, we walked through the neighborhood and streets,
found a cute bar to stop and have a handcrafted cocktail, and then made our way
back to the apartment for bed.
The next morning, we slept in a bit before getting up for
breakfast and then hitting the road. We had most of the day free so walked
through the streets of Athens, winding in and out.
Along our walk, we came across the National Gardens and made
our way through it. We discovered that natural areas like this are hard to come
by in Athens, so many come to enjoy it. The park was commissioned by Queen
Amalia, the first modern Queen of Greece. Just outside of the park is so much
history packed in one little block – as is the rest of the city! To the north
of the park, is where you can find the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which today
only has 15 of the original pillars left. And next to the temple, is Hadrian’s
Arch. Hadrian’s Arch was a gift to the city for the completion of Zeus’ Temple.
Just south of the Arch, on the corner of the national park is a beautiful
statue of Alexander the Great. And if you continue to walk down this road
toward the park entrance, you’ll come across a subway terminal. Huh? Why on
earth do you think a subway terminal is cool and historic? Turns out, when the
city was excavating to build this terminal, they found some ancient ruins of
Roman baths. We later learned that when building in Athens, this becomes a
regular problem. (Not really a problem since you’re uncovering history, but a
bit of a hinderance for architecture.) Many building projects choose not to go
underground for fear they will find something and need to pause their project
for an archaeological dig. Couple this with the following facts: buildings need
to be low for earthquake protection; and no building can be higher than the Acropolis,
so it can be seen from every angle of the city. These pieces can create big
issues for development. While the Acropolis sits high, it’s not that high, so
you won’t find many skyscrapers in Athens. The city must build out. For 4.5
million people. Sheesh!!
From the park, we went on to some of the most famous
neighborhoods in Athens. Athens is known for many of its flea markets and
shopping districts. Monastiraki being the most famous flea market with shops
and shops for blocks lined up. We wandered the streets, admiring the goodies.
In Greece, chess and backgammon are very popular. Regularly you will see people
playing on the streets, so naturally, we saw backgammon and chess sets being
sold all over. Bryan and I have played backgammon from time to time and thought
this might be a fun souvenir to bring home. These sets, however, are so ornate
and beautiful, they were a bit out of our price range for something we don’t
play THAT much. But incredible to see that detail.
Next up, we found our way to a store in Monastiraki called
Melissinos, the poet sandal maker. I had read about this store ahead of time –
this family has been making custom made sandals for over 100 years. Jackie O
made them famous, but celebrities have been
coming here and wearing them for years!
We walked into the store and it is so tiny and inconspicuous – which makes it
even better. (Just a heads up, if you do want to go here, come fall of 2019
they are changing locations.) You can get a specific pair custom made, or they
have several standard types you can choose from. I picked the style I wanted,
they asked my size, and from there they fit it to my foot. They measured the
leather straps, cut them to size, nailed them into place, gave me care
instructions and off we went! I was instructed not to wear them for four hours
while the glue dried, but I have gotten good use from them since…..and am
wearing them as I type this blog! I highly recommend this stop in Athens….
besides, who doesn’t want a new pair of shoes?!
From our shoe shopping experience, we headed to the next
shopping district of Plaka. Again, many more stores to visit and wander in and
out of here. But it was here that we stopped and had lunch on a patio, and of
course, some more Greek wine.
After lunch, it was time for our tour of the Acropolis. (The
term Acropolis means, City on the Edge, and it was built for defense and
protection, and to worship the Greek Goddess, Athena.) We met our tour guide at
a hotel back near the national park and the bus drove us around the city,
giving us a brief history of some of the things I mentioned earlier. Our first
stop was the Panthaeonic stadium. To be honest, we had kind of forgotten about
this place, so we were so happy our tour took us by it for a stop. The stadium
is the site of the first modern Olympics and was the first major stadium in the
entire world to be made from marble. These Olympics were started by a French
aristocrat and they took place in April 1896 and lasted for 10 days. The
Ancient games were born in Olympia, Greece, in honor of Zeus, which is where
the Olympic torch stays lit today. The ancient games were so exclusive that
women and slaves weren’t even allowed to watch the games.
From here, we parked at the Acropolis and walked up the
steep stairs to the beauty of this hill. The Acropolis has several structures
within the area that you are allowed to walk and view, the most famous being
the Parthenon (made of 70,000 individual pieces). We learned that the Parthenon
is the most copied structure in the world and what was fun for us is that we
have seen one of the copies; a few years prior, we were able to see the replica
that is in Nashville, Tennessee. The original Parthenon used to have a golden
statue of Athena inside, but years and years ago, it was stolen and probably
sold for the metal. Today, the Nashville Parthenon is the only one to have
replicated what they believe that statue to look like.
Next, we made our way throughout the entire Acropolis and
the various structures. Like Florence and the Renaissance Walk, there is so
much to see and explore I am going to put them in list form of what we saw. (There
are many structures we didn’t have time to explore):
Erechtheion: Temple dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon; During
a battle over the city, Poseidon offered a spring, Athena offered olive tree
(which still stands) and the residents wanted the tree, so she ‘won’ the city,
therefore the name Athens. You can still see Poseidon’s ‘angry’ trident mark
when he struck down because he didn’t win.
Propylaea: The entrance to the main site
Temple of Athena Nike
Odeon of Herodes Atticus: Amphitheater built in 151 AD that has been renovated
and still used today
Theatre of Dionysus: Considered to be the world’s first theater
Areopagus: Believed to be the rock where St Paul stood and proclaimed Christianity.
Not many converted immediately but overtime they did. Next to this is Ancient
Agora, which was the political center of Ancient Athens.
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Athena's Olive Tree |
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Odeon of Herodes Atticus |
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Temple of Athena Nike |
That wrapped up our Acropolis tour and soon we were back at
our apartment for dinner and bed. The next day we would be heading home and
back to Denver. What an incredible two weeks of history, food and fun we had
experienced. Where to go next?!